Sew Chaotically! - Grainline Studio's Alder Shirtdress (no ruffle but with Mandarin collar!)

I'm sure you remember my first Alder Shirtdress!!!

AND my excitement for my fabrics purchased from Miawa

Now I've finished the second one!!!  Again with a perfect fit...using my usual size 8 per Grainline sizing.  Simply cutting it to the longest length, rather than splicing in additional length at the appropriate line 'within' the pattern.  (Hey, it worked once....just rollin' wid it!!!)  Planned all along to make this one in the simpler version (though it left me making the more difficult one, due to the bum ruffle, first) because I thought the print would work better this way.  Applied a "Mandarin" collar (a variation Grainline discusses in their sew-along) by just using the collar stand.  And here it is:

Had to meditate a bit on what part of the fabric to use in the button band!  I think my final decision worked out pretty well.

Yes, my friends this one has a yoke at the upper back as well.  I know, I know...such matching!!!  Hee, hee!!!

Loved the variegated buttons, also from Maiwa....they worked with the fabric perfectly!!!

I REALLY like this pattern!  It sews up very easily.  The guts are completely finished since I flat felled the side seams.  I can see this version melding easily into fall with blue or brown tights and a jacket or sweater.  These are probably all the Alder's I'll make this year...but come spring.....  Hmmmm.....  Sew chaotically! - c

Sew Chaotically! ~ Celeste Archer! The start of a springtime top making roll!

In 2017 I was thrilled to make my second trip to Paris and that visit included fabric shopping!!!  I found this beautiful blue cotton print at the cutest little shop, Frou-Frou.  When I spied the label ~ well ~ 'Oiseaux Celeste' (Bird Celeste) had to come home with me!  I knew then it would make a lovely springtime Grainline Archer, previously made here and here.  And finally, she is done!

The drafting of Grainline's patterns works perfectly for me whether it is the Morris Blazer, Alder shirt dress or the Archer.  I made a straight 8 with no adjustments.  Isn't the fabric lovely?  It lived up to all my expectations and was a pleasure to work with!

I love the collar on both the Archer and Alder.  Though I have tried Grainline's method I have better luck with "alternative method" by Closet Case Patterns.  Give it a try if you haven't!

I used this cute cuff detail this time.

For this special make, I made an adjustment to my label!  Pretty guts!!!

And continuing my PSA's for melanoma awareness month...

Great strides have been made in melanoma treatment through the work of forward thinking researchers, the dedicated amazing hearts and lives of incredible ratties, and the dear ones who see them through!  But, we have a long way to go!  Protect the skin you're in!

Sew and live chaotically!  ~ les

Sew Chaotically!! - Another Alder shirt dress

Yes, I love Grainline Studio Patterns.  Yes, I've made their Alder shirt dress before!

With bum ruffle...

...and without!

Now in a beautiful Art Gallery cotton.

The hem is a little lower in the back.  I made the size 8 with no adjustments.

Proud of my details!!

Thanks for help finding the buttons, B!!!

And to finish with a little sister love!!!  Ruthie used the same print, though in the voile, to stitch up V9970.  (A pattern she does not really recommend due to poor drafting of the pin tucks in the bodice...but she made it work!!!)  Isn't she beautiful????

Sew Chaotically!!! Love, les

Sew Chaotically! - Grainline Studio Alder Shirtdress - with bum ruffle!!!

The same ladies who brought us the Morris blazer, designed this cute little dress (with or without the bum ruffle).  It is awesome!!!  I picked my same size 8 that I used in the blazer per my measurements.  Perfect!  You do have to remember to use 1/2 inch (rather than the more typical 5/8ths) seam allowance.  It goes together easy as pie.  Yes, you really do cut out the two front pieces, then whack a bit more off one of the pieces to allow for the button band.  She did a nifty little trick on either side of the collar that didn't really work for me....though others have been happy with it.  After some un-picking, I just sewed the last step of my inner collar the old fashioned way.  There is a sew-along that you can use and I found helpful.  It is divided into steps, but they are like blog posts with photos, so you may work through them as quickly or slowly as you like.  Here is a link to the first one:  Alder sew-along: Day 1 - fabric and supplies

Now for the fabulous fabric!!  Remember when I mentioned shopping for fabric at Maiwa in Vancouver at the Granville Market?  Here's the post:  Travel Chaotically! - Sky Scrapers  They do some pretty cool stuff!  Here's a link to their site:  Maiwa.com   As I mentioned in the post, the shop is more geared to printing and dyeing fabric than being a fabric shop per se.  But, a small selection of fabrics were already complete. Here's what I got:

  
The blue piece was dyed using actual indigo and then (as best as I can tell) block printed with the dots...which causes the bit of variation in size, shape, line-up that you can see (as well as color within the piece) and of which I am quite fond!

I just LOVE this dress!!!  It is probably more ME than anything I have made!!! As ever, chaotically precise....I always fall for classic designs....with a twist!

I made no alterations.  I cut the size 8 in all pieces, except I cut the hem using the longest length printed.  I may have broken some dastardly rule by doing this and I'm sure with some shapes and patterns it would be better to add length at the line noted "withIN" the pattern pieces, but with this shape and knowing that the bum ruffle was hitting where I wanted it...I figured it would work out....and I think it did!!!

Yes, I am ridiculously proud of that collar and button band!!!

You do a technique similar to the Morris Blazer collar application when you add the bum ruffle!  But it works out really well.

I flat felled the side seams and finished the ruffle on my serger.  NO UGLY INSIDES!!!

Cause BLUE....is a thing!!!

Seriously!!!

 

Sew and sing and twirl....chaotically!!!   I'm Blue Da Ba Dee Daba da   c

Sew Chaotically! - Me Made May - Week 2

Me Made May! ~ 2017   Week 2!

Loooove this fit and flare top.  B5890

Polka dot New Look 0926 and you know I love my Grainline Morris Blazer!!!

It ain't dinner if you don't add onions!!!  One of my favorite makes evah!!!  Grainline studio's Alder Shirtdress

Recently minted Funky vintage (?) men's wear (??) pants!

Downtown with my bestie and awesome advocate after a speech he gave in front of the Courthouse and a conspicuously absent Senator Lamar Alexander!!!  B fights for the health care rights of all of us.  And...oh yeah....me made Top from McCall's Dress 6886

After a fun breakfast with Roo and Jamie....

...a little walk with Karma in my Me Made cowl neck knit tee shirt dress, McCall's 6752

Happy Mother's Day to all you great moms out there.  Just chill'n in my me made, dead easy elastic waist skirt in a crazy knit.

Thanks for indulging me, B.  Thanks to all 4 of my peeps, for letting me "mother"!  Sew and live, chaotically! - c